Curly Hair Care 101

Are you struggling with your natural texture?

Here are the most common things that derail your style.

Shampoo and Conditioner

Curly hair needs extra moisture!! You may want to interject and say, "I use quality shampoo", "I don't shampoo every day", or "My scalp is really oily". These can all be true and your hair still may not be getting the moisture it needs. First you need to understand that curly hair is a different shape than straight hair. It is oval instead of round. Because of this the natural oils from our scalp have a harder time going down the length of our strands to replenish them.

"But, I'm using quality shampoo and conditioner"

Even if you are using good quality products, you may still be using the wrong ones. It happens all the time. Many people will use a color protecting shampoo and conditioner and this will dry their hair out. Why? These types of products have more protein in them and less moisture. You want to look for products that say they are "Hydrating" or "Moisturizing" vs "Repairing". If you feel you need something to help with fading color then choose a color protecting shampoo and a hydrating conditioner. The best results though, usually come from using products that are specifically designed for curly hair.

" I don't shampoo every day"

Sometimes people skip the shampoo and conditioner, but still hop in the shower and get their hair wet. While this can be helpful, it can also be drying, especially if you like to take nice hot showers. It may be best to look at your styling routine and see if you can squeeze another day or two out of your style (more on this later). The other thing that can be very beneficial is to only use cool water on your hair. But what about that hot, steamy shower? Simply step out of the water spray and rinse your head and hair only in that cool water. This is also how you can rinse out your conditioner while still enjoying a shower to the temperature of your liking.

So how could your shampoo routine work on wash days?

This is how it works best for most of the clients I have. Get in the shower and shampoo. Rinse. Put in conditioner ( this is where I'd have people finger comb, or another wide tooth come if that is part of their routine). Do all the other things you do in the shower. Step out of the water and turn down the temperature. Rinse hair upside down. Now you don't have to do this but I've found most of us don't want to stand in cool water and the easiest way to rinse your hair in cooler water than you shower in is to do it this way.

What kind towel are you using on your hair?

I recommend using a microfiber towel for curly hair. Some of you may even use a T-shirt. Why is this even important? Every curly haired person is trying to control frizz. It starts with your towel. If you are using a rough textured towel it roughs up the cuticle of the hair and that is where the frizz comes from. The smoother t-shirts or microfiber towels will still absorb the water but save your cuticle. Also, if you are rubbing your hair to dry it, stop now. Our hair is fragile when it is wet and whether you are curly or straight, this will only fuzz up and damage your hair strands.

Styling Products

Before we talk about specifics of what and how, you need to understand that you can't put any products into partially dry hair and get very good results. What does this mean? Your hair needs to be wet, sometimes very wet when you begin adding products to get the best results. Everyone's hair is different, however, I have found that putting in styling products when your hair is almost dripping wet, yields the best results. Why? Once the hair starts to dry, that is exactly how it is going to stay until it gets wet again. Curly hair needs to clump together to make the fabulous curls that you see. If the hair starts dry without products, you may not get the ideal clumping to make the best curls that you can.

Which products are best? And how to put them in your hair

There isn't a hard and fast rule about what is the best thing. Everyone's hair, styling preferences and lifestyle will determine what you should be using on your hair. Finer hair may work best with a lighter gel or a cream. Coarser hair may require a firmer gel and more products.

So where to start? I like to have clients begin with a couple things and build from there. Many people will benefit from a leave in conditioner, because we need the extra moisture. Next add in the styler. Any gel will usually have more hold than a cream. Typically I see more longevity of style with gels vs creams, meaning you may be able to get more days out of a style before you need to get it wet again and restyle. Creams can be used in a variety of ways. They can be used alone or paired with a gel to add more staying power or to help tame frizz. Creams can sometimes, also be used on dry hair to tame frizz or refresh curl patterns.

After you've put in hour products, you'll want to squeeze the excess water out of the hair and get ready to dry it. There is a lot of benefits from plopping the hair. Unsure what that is or how to do it? Here is a great video from the Glam Belle. The towel she uses in this video is one of my favorites! You can plop for any amount of time, depending on your hair, a shorter or longer duration may work better for you.

Lastly we dry the hair (if you aren't letting it air dry). I always recommend using a diffuser for curly or wavy hair. It disperses the air flow so that it is more gentle and not ruffling up that cuticle that we are working so hard to keep lying down. Using a medium air speed and a low to med heat setting is usually the best for blow drying. Many people dry their hair upside down to increase volume.

What challenges are you experiencing with you natural texture? I'd be happy to help you address problem areas and come up with workable solutions.

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